Mini Bear making - Ladder stitch

At last I have some time for another post.  This time - Ladder Stitch.  After your bear parts are stuffed, it's time to close up the openings.  Ladder stitch is very secure and invisible, if done correctly.  I have used a contrasting colour thread so the stitches are visible in the picture, but of course I use a matching colour on actual bears.

The important things to remember are -

• Stitches should be evenly spaced - one stitch length
• They should be an even distance from the edge of the fabric
• The rungs of the 'ladder' should be parallel to each other

Ladder Stitch

Start with a large knot in your thread - you don't want it to pull through when you tighten the stitches.

Take stitches from alternating sides of the opening, back and forth, until you reach the end.

Ladder Stitch 2

Try not to disturb the backing threads on the fabric too much, because this will weaken your seam.

Stitching complete

For larger bears, the seam is closed gradually, as you stitch, but in mini bears, there will be too much stress on the fabric. In any case, the opening is too small, so I prefer to close the seam after I have completed all the stitching.

The seam pinched and stitches pushed in

I pinch the limb firmly to take the stress off the seam, and use the side of the needle to push the stuffing, stitches and sides of the fabric into the limb.  While still pinching, I slowly, but firmly, pull up the stitching, until the seam is fully closed.

Closed seam

The picture shows the closed seam.  Even the dark thread is difficult to see.  Those last few stitches will disappear after I have tied the thread off, and buried the end inside the limb.

Just a quick word about stuffing.  Please don't use ginned cotton to stuff mini bears that will be string jointed - It is nearly impossible to get the needle through.  Even noses and eyes are difficult to attach if using cotton.






We're nearly there!  Next time, ears, eyes and noses. 

I promise to post sooner next time.  Happy Crafting!  Bye for now, Jan

Mini Bear making - all stitched up

My first micro mini teddy bear was made about 9 years ago.  I've called him Teeny Ted.  I made him without magnification so some of the stitching is visible, although he's is so small you still have to look closely.   Teeny Ted is about 2.5cm (1 inch) tall, and made from a very short pile, paw pad fabric.  I didn't have access to all the other lush plush that is available these days.

Teeny Ted sitting on a Doll's House table

I still have some of the fabric, and I like the teddy yellow colour, so I am making another one.  These pictures show the pieces all stitched up, and then turned through, next to my thimble. 

The little ted's parts are not stuffed or jointed yet - that will be in my next bear making post.

Thanks for your interest, Bye for now, Jan

Mini Bear making - Back stitch

My mini bears are best sewn together using back stitch, in the stabbing method.  This means that the upward stitch is made first, and then followed by the downward stitch - not down and up in the same stitch.  This method is a bit slower, but the result is a firmer, stronger seam that can withstand some pressure during the turning and stuffing process, and enables you to sew smaller stitches.

I hope  my photos can demonstrate this clearly. 

Come up, one stitch length away from the
previous stitch

Take needle back down again
 where the previous stitches end.

The backing threads on the fabric are a good guide to keep your stitches the same length, and the same distance from the edge.

The following picture shows the method of back stitch used on surface embroidery.

Traditional back stitch

I have stitched some felt together using both methods in a contrasting colour thread-

The stabbing version on the left and traditional back stitch on the right. 

Notice the difference when the fabric is stretched open - this happens during the stuffing process.  I highly recommend the stabbing method for best results - you want your bear to look his best!

The next post will show a mini bear all stitched up and turned.

Cheers, Jan

P.S.  I'm not sure what happened to the colour in my last photos!  I might need to talk nicely to my camera for the next pics.

Mini Bear making - Pattern layout and cutting

So many people think that miniature things are easier to make.  I have had comments that my bears are so small that it would only take a few stitches and it's finished.  Nothing could be further from the truth.  I make my mini bears in exactly the same way as bigger bears - the only difference is that my stitches are a lot smaller, my tools are finer, and it takes a lot more patience, especially with the very little ones. 

For this reason, I've decided to show my bear making process in this blog, and then list the resulting bears in my Etsy shop.

My bear designs are similar, but not exactly the same.  Different fabrics can affect the final result - size and shape, texture and colour.  I also make small adjustments to my patterns too - the length and width of arms, legs and paws, bent or straight, slender or rotund tummy, long or short snout, wide or narrow head, large or small ears, eyes and nose.  So even with one pattern, many different and unique bears can be made.  Therefore, no two of my bears are identical, and all have their own personalities.

When I have decided on a design and fabric, I cut out the pattern pieces from thin card, and trace around them onto the back of the fur fabric.  It's important to know the direction of the 'pile' (fur), so that your finished bear is smooth to stroke, like a real bear.  Ultrasuede, which I use for the paw pads and inner ears, also has a 'pile'.  It's softer on one side than the other, and if you rub your fingernail across the surface, one way is smoothest, the opposite direction will lift up the pile.

Pile direction

The picture shows the pile in a downward direction.  The backing is visible at the top, and the fur is overlapping the backing at the lower edge.  I use a pin on the back, to show the direction of the pile, while I'm tracing the pattern pieces.

For a basic bear you need 21 pieces altogether.  Two side heads, one reversed, 1 head gusset, 2 ears - fur, 2 ears - ultrasuede, 2 body pieces, one reversed, 2 outer arms, one reversed,  2 inner arms, one reversed, 2 paw pads, one reversed - ultrasuede, 4 legs, two reversed, and 2 foot paw pads - ultrasuede.

Trace pattern onto back of fur fabric

I use gel pens to draw my patterns, in a colour that is visible, but not bright.  Always count the pieces, and ensure that you have reversed the pattern where necessary - before cutting out any of the pieces.

Be careful to only cut the backing fabric and not the pile.  With short pile fabrics, it's easy to take a large sweeping cut, and end up with a bald patch on your bear.  It's worth taking your time.  For accuracy, I cut exactly on the inner edge if the drawn lines, which removes the pen markings, and the pieces are the same size as the pattern.

A mini bear ready to sew

Next post - back stitching the pieces together.

After my last post, I have found a lot of other crafty bloggers who are inspired by their grandmothers.  To all grandmothers, a heartfelt thankyou for keeping craft alive, and please continue to teach, encourage and inspire, as only grandmothers can.

Bye for now, Jan